

The art of building a skincare routine has become very complicated because there are so many options these days. However, even with companies beating down your door or, in this case, email and social media feeds working overtime to sell you a new must-have product, there is one tried-and-true addition everyone should be using—retinol. As someone who has used retinol, also known as vitamin A, for at least ten years, I can vouch for its benefits (think: smoother skin, less hyperpigmentation, and fewer hormonal breakouts). But, if you're new to building a routine, you should know a few things before you add this to your cart.
First, let's discuss the difference between retinol vs. retinoid.
For expert info, I tapped Dr. Erum Ilyas, a board-certified dermatologist with Schweiger Dermatology Group, for guidance on all things vitamin A. The difference between the two boils down to science. "Retinoids work by targeting specific cell receptors regulating gene expression," Ilyas shares. "They increase the rate of cell turnover and collagen production and decrease the rate at which collagen is broken down."
So if you're looking to address fine lines and wrinkles, retinoids can help. In addition to those benefits, retinoids help the skin retain water. Alternatively, retinol, Ilyas says, is inactive when applied to the skin but is converted by the skin into retinoic acid, which is considered an active retinoid. "It is the active retinoid that can actually benefit the skin, not the retinol directly."
So what does all this mean for hyperpigmentation and dark spots?
As someone who struggles with hyperpigmentation, adding vitamin A to my skin routine has been a game changer. I can wear less makeup, and my skin looks healthier. And there's a reason for this, Ilyas tells xoNecole. "Retinol is proven to inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme, an enzyme responsible for producing pigment in the skin and promote cell turnover to help reduce excess pigment in the skin." But sometimes cell turnover means the retinol uglies, aka flaky, dry skin. So it's essential to start slowly.
Ilyas recommends chatting with your dermatologist to get advice on your skin needs if you experience irritation. "In general, it helps to reduce use to every other night instead of every night," she explains. "Work your way up to every night as tolerated. Some retinoids can be used by applying a moisturizer first with the retinoid on top, [but] check with your dermatologist as for some retinoids, this will not affect the potency of the product while for others it may."
What should newbies start with to ease skin into using a vitamin A product or retinol?
"If you have sensitive skin or eczema-prone skin, be cautious with the use of retinol," Ilyas advises. "It may just aggravate your dryness and make it hard for you to appreciate its benefits." Alternatively, if you don't have skin sensitivities and your skin can tolerate it, she suggests nightly use or every other night application until your skin gets adjusted. "All too often, people will use retinol daily, experience irritation, stop using it for a week or so, and then forget to use it again. It is far more beneficial to develop a routine with your retinol and balance the benefits with the potential for dryness."
If I find my skin is flaky, with the application of my vitamin A, I layer a hyaluronic acid serum. That helps a lot. I also cleanse my skin in the mornings with an oil cleanser and muslin cloth to gently slough away any flakes. If you can't deal with the dryness, there is an alternative—bakuchiol. The plant-based ingredient is clinically proven to have similar positive effects on the skin sans the irritation.
Additionally, a critical skincare do to remember if adding vitamin A to your routine is that SPF is a must because the ingredient can make skin more sensitive to UV exposure. Also, sunlight can undo all the work you're putting in with a disciplined routine and great products.
Now here are a few of my favorite vitamin A-rich products:
ROSE Ingleton MD Retexturizing Retinol Booster Serum
Dr. Loretta Concentrated Firming Serum
Shani Darden Skin Care Retinol Reform
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Bianca Lambert is a proud Atlanta native soaking up the Los Angeles sun. She is the founder of Mae B: a stationery company for women of color and a digital content creator on a mission to elevate the voices of women of color everywhere.
On her debut album,CTRL,SZA crooned about her desire to be a “Normal Girl.” Now, nearly eight years since its release, her Not Beauty line represents her commitment to existing outside of traditional beauty norms.
The singer whose real name is Solána Imani Rowe first teased the idea of a lip gloss line during Super Bowl LIX in February, noting that the release would be happening “very shortly.” Not Beauty debuted simultaneously with the Grand National Tour, which she co-headlines with Kendrick Lamar, in Minneapolis on April 19.
Each Not Beauty pop-up would offer fans the opportunity to purchase the glosses, learn more about the brand, and have the opportunity to meet the superstar in the flesh regardless of their ticket status.
During the Los Angeles tour stop, which spanned three dates on May 21, May 23, with the finale on May 24, xoNecole had the opportunity to test out the glosses included in this soft launch, as SZA revealed in a statement that "this is just the start of other lip products, including plans to launch stains, liners, and creams all inspired by SZA's “infamous layered lip combinations.”
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So, what is included in the first Not Beauty launch?
The current Not Beauty products available are lip glosses that come in three shades: In the Flesh, Strawberry Jelly, and Quartz.
During my visit to the first LA Not Beauty pop-up activation, I not only had the chance to purchase all three glosses but also took a peek inside the blow-up log tent. Inside, fans got to experience SZA’s love for nature and her fascination with bugs, which are prominently featured in her performances for this tour. At one point, she even had human preying mantis prancing across the stage y'all.
There were blow-up photos of the beauty that is SZA for fans (myself included) to take photos, but in wooden-like tree trunks were a deeper dive into some of the ingredients featured in her products and their benefits.
For example, the glosses feature Hi-Shine Lip Jelly and Shea Butter as key ingredients and some of the listed benefits included are:
- Shea Butter - “A powerhouse ingredient, offering both functional and nourishing benefits.”
- Hi-Shine Lip Jelly (featured in the In the Flesh shade) - “Formula glides on with perfect adhesion to the lips without stickiness).
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What are in the products?
Featured in an orange package, with images of a bug and flower on the side, the back of the box reads: “It’s NOT BEAUTY, it just works. Developed by Solána “SZA” Rowe.
As someone who never leaves home without a good lip gloss, I loved how compact the wood panel packaging is. Perfect to slip into my purse, or in the case of the show at SoFi Stadium, into my pocket when I’m not carrying a bag.
Because I’m a sucker for a good black and brown lip liner and clear gloss combo, I decided to wear the Quartz flavor on night one of the Grand National Tour LA stop, and it did not disappoint. I’ll admit, it’s light weight feel made me nervous because it felt like there was nothing on my lips. However, when I checked my lips in my compact mirror several times throughout the night, I was shocked to find that my gloss was still intact. I only reapplied once out of the habit of looking cute and applying my gloss, but not necessity.
Here are some of the ingredients featured, but not limited to, in the Quartz flavor.
- Polyisoubutene
- Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea)Butter
- Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
- Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil
- Tocopherol
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Lip prep
I’m a simple girl who loves to stay true to her roots. So ahead of the show, I stopped by a local Inglewood Beauty Supply store and grabbed a Black and Brown shade lip pencil for just under $2 a piece.
Shading the outline of my lips with the black pencil first, I used the brown to lightly fill the inside of my lips before applying my Quartz Not Beauty shade gloss.
How to apply
There’s truly no right or wrong way to apply lip gloss (in my opinion), with this being a brush applicator sort of product, I simply untwisted the top and swiped the gloss around my top and bottom lip generously.
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Results
Again, my Not Beauty Quartz product stayed on my lips from the start of the show, which began with a fire DJ set from LA’s very own, Mustard, to the conclusion when Kendrick and SZA reunited on stage to send us home to their duet, “luther,” featured on the rapper's GNX album.
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Devale Ellis On Being A Provider, Marriage Growth & Redefining Fatherhood
In this candid episode of the xoMAN podcast, host Kiara Walker talked with Devale Ellis, actor, social media personality, and star of Zatima, about modern masculinity, learning to be a better husband, emotional presence in marriage, fatherhood for Black men, and leading by example.
“I Wasn’t Present Emotionally”: Devale Ellis on Marriage Growth
Devale Ellis On Learning He Was a ‘Bad Husband’
Ellis grew up believing that a man should prioritize providing for his family. “I know this may come off as misogynistic, but I feel like it’s my responsibility as a man to pay for everything,” he said, emphasizing the wise guidance passed down by his father. However, five years into his marriage to long-time partner Khadeen Ellis, he realized provision wasn’t just financial.
“I was a bad husband because I wasn’t present emotionally… I wasn’t concerned about what she needed outside of the resources.”
Once he shifted his mindset, his marriage improved. “In me trying to be of service to her, I learned that me being of service created a woman who is now willing to be of service to me.”
On Redefining Masculinity and Fatherhood
For Ellis, “being a man is about being consistent.” As a father of four, he sees parenthood as a chance to reshape the future.
“Children give you another chance at life. I have four different opportunities right now to do my life all over again.”
He also works to uplift young Black men, reinforcing their worth in a world that often undermines them. His values extend to his career—Ellis refuses to play roles that involve domestic violence or sexual assault.
On Marriage, Family Planning, and Writing His Story
After his wife’s postpartum preeclampsia, Ellis chose a vasectomy over her taking hormonal birth control, further proving his commitment to their partnership. He and Khadeen share their journey in We Over Me, and his next book, Raising Kings: How Fatherhood Saved Me From Myself, is on the way.
Through honesty and growth, Devale Ellis challenges traditional ideas of masculinity, making his story one that resonates deeply with millennial women.
For the xoMAN podcast, host Kiara Walker peels back the layers of masculinity with candid conversations that challenge stereotypes and celebrate vulnerability. Real men. Real stories. Real talk.
Want more real talk from xoMAN? Catch the full audio episodes every Tuesday on Spotify and Apple Podcasts, and don’t miss the full video drops every Wednesday on YouTube. Hit follow, subscribe, and stay tapped in.
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