I moved to Vietnam in April 2014 from South Korea to teach English. After living in Korea for two years, and adopting a Korean skin care routine, my skin was pretty flawless. But after my move, my skin rebelled, and I had one of the worst breakouts I'd ever had. Enter my new issues with hyperpigmentation.
It started off with a few pimples that I could keep under control, but by the next year, I had a full-blown acne problem. A combination of the terrible pollution in Ho Chi Minh City mixed with the hot, humid climate left the skin around my chin, cheeks, and jawline a hot mess.
I finally managed to tame the breakout, but I was left with nasty post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or PIH for short. It made me self-conscious and I hated going outside without makeup. My skin felt smooth, but looked as if I was a 16-year-old hormonal teenager. No ma'am!
One of my friends introduced me to the world of AHAs, or Alpha-Hydroxy Acids, and my life has forever been changed. AHAs work by gently exfoliating the top layer skin to remove dead skin cells. As a result, using AHAs reveal healthy, younger looking skin, free of PIH.
There are three types of AHAs that I gravitate towards: glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. Glycolic acid is the most common type of AHA. Its molecules are smaller than other AHAs, which is why people typically see faster results using glycolic acid, but it's also more irritating than other types of AHAs. If you have sensitive skin, lactic acid is a better option since it's much more gentle than glycolic. But by far my favorite AHA is mandelic acid. Derived from bitter almonds, mandelic acid is just as effective as glycolic acid, but causes significantly less redness, flakiness, and dry skin. Mandelic acid is also a better choice for Black women as it doesn't cause additional skin discoloration like glycolic acid can.
Armed with my newfound education in AHAs and all that they can do, I incorporated them into my modified Korean skincare routine, and slowly but surely, saw impressive results. After about three months, my skin was completely acne and PIH free! My skin currently looks the best it's ever had, and I'm constantly getting compliments on my glowy skin. It's a far cry from where I was at the beginning of the year!
My nighttime skincare routine goes something like this:
**Note, I only apply AHAs at night as they make your skin sensitive to the sun!**
Step One:
Remove makeup and sunscreen with an oil based cleanser. I love the Illi Total Aging Care Cleansing oil, but you can also use any basic oil like olive oil or argan oil. I personally do not use coconut oil as it's slightly comedogenic and causes me to break out.
Step Two:
Cleanse skin again using a gentle foaming cleanser. One of my all time Korean beauty favorites is the su:m37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick. It's so popular, it was discontinued for a while to allow for the company to restock. Next, follow up with a toner. I am obsessed with Son and Park's Beauty Water, an all in one cleaner, toner, and hydrating treatment.
Step Three:
Use an AHA serum/treatment. I like to apply it with my hands instead of a cotton pad as it doesn't waste product. AHA serums are typically a bit expensive, and I like to save money! Gently press the product into your skin and wait between 20 to 30 minutes before moving on to your next skincare step. Why the waiting period? AHAs work at a lower pH, typically less than 4. Applying a moisturizer directly after your AHA treatment increases the pH of your skin, which renders the active ingredients in your treatment useless.
So the waiting period is necessary to allow the AHAs to work their exfoliating magic! I also apply my AHA serum as a spot treatment, to help speed up the healing process of any existing breakouts. While I wait for the AHA to do its thing, I usually get my clothes and lunch ready for the next day. My current favorite is the Vivant Skincare 8% 3-in-1 Mandelic Acid Serum. Paula's Choice is also another great option to find affordable and effective AHA treatment serums.
Step Four:
Apply a hydrating toner or serum. In Korean skincare, most toners are for hydration, not for cleansing. I love theWhamisa Organic Flowers Deep Rich Essence Toner. I have oily skin, but my skin feels pretty dry after applying my AHA treatment, so I make sure to hydrate my skin a ton at night. If you really want to indulge, use a sheet mask for this step. Beautibi is sheet mask heaven!
Step Five:
Apply your moisturizer or facial oil (or if you're like me, both!), and BOOM! You are finished for the night. I'm currently loving the Whamisa Organic Flowers Facial oil, and the Cosrx Ultimate Moisturizing Honey Overnight Mask. I mix them together for the ultimate hydrating boost.
In the morning, make sure to apply a sunscreen after your moisturizer, and before you apply primer or makeup. As I mentioned earlier, AHAs make your skin photosensitive, so wearing sunscreen during the day is non-negotiable. Don't make the mistake of investing in expensive AHA treatments only to not use sunscreen! My favorite sunscreen is the Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence. It's perfect for oily skinned women, and wears under makeup like magic.
Following this routine, I managed to get rid of my PIH. Now, my skin is bright, clear, smooth and soft. I rarely have breakouts, and my skin is even toned. My biggest bit of advice during this whole process is to be patient and start off very slowly with your AHA treatment. Use the lowest percentage product (3%-5%) possible, twice a week at first. If your skin starts flaking, purging, is red and unusually dry, scale back your use. Once your skin starts adjusting to treatment, you can increase your usage, and then increase your AHA percentage.
I'm currently up to using 8%-10% products and am going to move up to 15%! Adding in AHAs to my skincare routine has drastically changed the appearance of my skin every way! It's not an overnight cure, but the best things come to those who wait!
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In a xoNecoleexclusive, the iconic actress opens up about embracing this season of her life, new projects, and overall being a “bad motherfucker.” Gabrielle reveals that she was 37 years old when she was diagnosed with perimenopause and is still going through it at 51 years old. Mayo Clinic says perimenopause “refers to the time during which your body makes the natural transition to menopause, marking the end of the reproductive years.”
“I haven't crossed over the next phase just yet, but I think part of it is when you hear any form of menopause, you automatically think of your mother or grandmother. It feels like an old-person thing, but for me, I was 37 and like not understanding what that really meant for me. And I don't think we focus so much on the word menopause without understanding that perimenopause is just the time before menopause,” she tells us.
Gabrielle Union
Photo by Brian Thomas
"But you can experience a lot of the same things during that period that people talk about, that they experienced during menopause. So you could get a hot flash, you could get the weight gain, the hair loss, depression, anxiety, like all of it, mental health challenges, all of that can come, you know, at any stage of the menopausal journey and like for me, I've been in perimenopause like 13, 14 years. When you know, most doctors are like, ‘Oh, but it's usually about ten years, and I'm like, ‘Uhh, I’m still going (laughs).’”
Conversations about perimenopause, fibroids, and all the things that are associated with women’s bodies have often been considered taboo and thus not discussed publicly. However, times are changing, and thanks to the Gabrielle’s and the Tia Mowry’s, more women are having an authentic discourse about women’s health. These open discussions lead to the creation of more safe spaces and support for one another.
“I want to be in community with folks. I don't ever want to feel like I'm on an island about anything. So, if I can help create community where we are lacking, I want to be a part of that,” she says. “So, it's like there's no harm in talking about it. You know what I mean? Like, I was a bad motherfucker before perimenopause. I’m a bad motherfucker now, and I'll be a bad motherfucker after menopause. Know what I’m saying? None of that has to change. How I’m a bad motherfucker, I welcome that part of the change. I'm just getting better and stronger and more intelligent, more wise, more patient, more compassionate, more empathetic. All of that is very, very welcomed, and none of it should be scary.”
The Being Mary Jane star hasn’t been shy about her stance on therapy. If you don’t know, here’s a hint: she’s all for it, and she encourages others to try it as well. She likens therapy to dating by suggesting that you keep looking for the right therapist to match your needs. Two other essential keys to her growth are radical transparency and radical acceptance (though she admits she is still working on the latter).
"I was a bad motherfucker before perimenopause. I’m a bad motherfucker now, and I'll be a bad motherfucker after menopause. Know what I’m saying? None of that has to change. How I’m a bad motherfucker, I welcome that part of the change."
Gabrielle Union and Kaavia Union-Wade
Photo by Monica Schipper/Getty Images
“I hope that a.) you recognize that you're not alone. Seek out help and know that it's okay to be honest about what the hell is happening in your life. That's the only way that you know you can get help, and that's also the only other way that people know that you are in need if there's something going on,” she says, “because we have all these big, very wild, high expectations of people, but if they don't know what they're actually dealing with, they're always going to be failing, and you will always be disappointed. So how about just tell the truth, be transparent, and let people know where you are. So they can be of service, they can be compassionate.”
Gabrielle’s transparency is what makes her so relatable, and has so many people root for her. Whether through her TV and film projects, her memoirs, or her social media, the actress has a knack for making you feel like she’s your homegirl. Scrolling through her Instagram, you see the special moments with her family, exciting new business ventures, and jaw-dropping fashion moments. Throughout her life and career, we’ve seen her evolve in a multitude of ways. From producing films to starting a haircare line to marriage and motherhood, her journey is a story of courage and triumph. And right now, in this season, she’s asking, “What’s next?”
“This is a season of discovery and change. In a billion ways,” says the NAACP Image Award winner. “The notion of like, ‘Oh, so and so changed. They got brand new.’ I want you to be brand new. I want me to be brand new. I want us to be always constantly growing, evolving. Having more clarity, moving with different purpose, like, and all of that is for me very, very welcomed."
"I want you to be brand new. I want me to be brand new. I want us to be always constantly growing, evolving. Having more clarity, moving with different purpose, like, and all of that is for me very, very welcomed."
She continues, “So I'm just trying to figure out what's next. You know what I mean? I'm jumping into what's next. I'm excited going into what's next and new. I'm just sort of embracing all of what life has to offer.”
Look out for Gabrielle in the upcoming indie film Riff Raff, which is a crime comedy starring her and Jennifer Coolidge, and she will also produce The Idea of You, which stars Anne Hathaway.
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Feature image by Mike Lawrie/Getty Images
