I Have Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation & Here's How I Live With It
DARK SPOTS.
They show up on your skin from time to time. You find them on your face, your arms, legs, or anywhere you've touched your skin or maybe not touched your skin. By touch, I mean to pick, squeeze, or scratch an area of skin that is inflamed or healing.
Well, what is it? Is it just a scar? What causes this ugly darkening of the skin?
As told to me by my dermatologist, this skin condition is called Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH). PIH is an injury or disorder of the skin. Essentially, it is the darkening of the skin after an injury from a cut, a burn, an insect bite, or more commonly acne. As the skin heals, an overproduction of melanin is produced. The extra melanin darkens and discolors the skin; the skin remains discolored after the wound has healed.
This is also how my skin heals and how everyone else with PIH heals. In the words of TLC, these dark spots on my face made me feel so damn unpretty. I felt like I never had good skin, even though people admired my complexion. I developed skin problems younger than most adolescent girls. I was so young, and I didn't have a good understanding of skincare. Especially, being a woman of color growing up in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Options were limited, and certain ingredients found in over-the-counter skincare products can further irritate PIH.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation is a skin condition that affects men and women equally. This includes all skin types and more so people with skin of color. The majority of African-American women are susceptible to this disorder; roughly forty-five to eighty-three percent. The discoloration can take anywhere from three to twenty-four months to fade. Say what? While I am completely in love with my dark sun-kissed skin; the darker skin, the darker the spot, and the longer the healing process. Trust me. I have lived with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation for a whole thirty-five years of life as I am sure many other women do too.
There is hope my melanin poppin' queens.
Treatment for PIH is readily available and there are more skincare options for women of color today than there were a decade ago. My skincare skills have increasingly been on point as I slide into my thirties. Here are some tips and products I have used to treat my post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
A Good Dermatologist
I cannot stress enough how important it is to find a good dermatologist, let alone a good esthetician. You want someone who takes the time to examine your skin, listen to your concerns, recommend a skincare routine, and prescribe medications (retinol, azelaic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid scrub, and a sulfur wash) that work for you. You don't want someone who is out to provide or sell services just to make a profit. I probably have gone through five different dermatologists over the last ten years. Recently, I found myself returning to my childhood dermatologist. To me, a good dermatologist (a good anything) is like dating, you're going to go through a few until there is that one that meets your needs.
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Stop Touching Your Skin
Don't you dare pop that pimple, pick that scab, cyst, ingrown hair, or scratch that mosquito bite. I promise you; you will be sorry later. We're all guilty of this though. Thanks, Dr. Pimple Popper for showcasing your skills. There is some kind of innate relief associated with popping pimples; disgusting yet satisfying. I know because my esthetician low key revealed this to me. Seriously, picking at your skin only makes hyperpigmentation worse and does not allow the discoloration to heal and fade. If you need to have blackheads or cysts removed, see a professional.
Chemical Peels
I scheduled a series of chemical peels at my local dermatologist's office. I tried a twenty to thirty percent salicylic acid peel for a period of three months (a chemical peel is recommended every four to six weeks). Chemical peels remove dead skin, promote skin growth, and even your skin tone. Everyone's result will be different, and your skin is guaranteed to peel as if you were sunburned. Sunblock and moisturizers are so necessary when undergoing this treatment. I was pleased with my results, but I probably needed a second round of treatment to achieve my desired results.
Facials
I had my first facial in January 2018 and the results were amazing. I couldn't believe the difference in my skin. I found an esthetician that I can trust with my skin. Let me just say, this is not easy to do. Unfortunately, sometimes we as women overpay for services based on an advertisement or because it sounds good. The majority of the time these services are not needed and are not conducive to individual skincare needs. So be careful. A good esthetician will always tell you the truth and set you straight. Estheticians and dermatologists generally recommend a facial at least once a month.
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Dermaplaning
Game-changer. Dermaplaning is the removal of dead skin cells and hair ("peach fuzz") from the face by using a surgical scalpel. The first time I received a dermaplaning treatment, I could not believe all the hair and old skin that was removed from my face. My skin was so soft, even, and brand new. I was legit glowing. Most estheticians or dermatologists offer this service and it's recommended every 3-4 weeks. Did you know every time you undergo dermaplaning, you are removing two to three weeks of dead skin?
These are my go-to-solutions to live with not having flawless skin due to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Try whatever works for you and your skin.
Originally published on Medium
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Camille is a lover of all things skin, curls, music, justice, and wanderlust; oceans and islands are her thing. Her words inspire and her power is her voice. A California native with Trinidadian roots, she has penned personal essays, interviews, and lifestyle pieces for POPSUGAR, FEMI magazine, and SelfishBabe. Camille is currently creating a life she loves through words, self-love, fitness, travel, and empowerment. You can follow her on Instagram @cam_just_living or @written_by_cam.
ItGirl 100 Honors Black Women Who Create Culture & Put On For Their Cities
As they say, create the change you want to see in this world, besties. That’s why xoNecole linked up with Hyundai for the inaugural ItGirl 100 List, a celebration of 100 Genzennial women who aren’t afraid to pull up their own seats to the table. Across regions and industries, these women embody the essence of discovering self-value through purpose, honey! They're fierce, they’re ultra-creative, and we know they make their cities proud.
VIEW THE FULL ITGIRL 100 LIST HERE.
Don’t forget to also check out the ItGirl Directory, featuring 50 Black-woman-owned marketing and branding agencies, photographers and videographers, publicists, and more.
THE ITGIRL MEMO
I. An ItGirl puts on for her city and masters her self-worth through purpose.
II. An ItGirl celebrates all the things that make her unique.
III. An ItGirl empowers others to become the best versions of themselves.
IV. An ItGirl leads by example, inspiring others through her actions and integrity.
V. An ItGirl paves the way for authenticity and diversity in all aspects of life.
VI. An ItGirl uses the power of her voice to advocate for positive change in the world.
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The Champion's Path: How Cari Champion Is Redefining Roles For Black Women In Media
Cari Champion has had many dream jobs. All of them have helped inform what she does and does not want for herself moving forward. “I get more and more curious. My dreams evolve. My desires change,” she said. “And I feel sorry for people who can’t experience that because it’s a beautiful feeling, it’s a beautiful challenge, and it makes you everything that you are.”
When we speak in late April, the journalist and media personality is preparing for a visit to Atlanta for The Black Effect Podcast Festival. The trip would allow her to spend time in a city that she said taught her a lot about herself and working in the media industry.
Champion was still early in her career when she worked for Atlanta’s CBS affiliate news station, where she was fired, reinstated, and subsequently quit after being accused of accidentally cursing on air in 2008. (“I didn’t. They knew I didn’t. I said ‘mothersucka,’” she said of the hot mic incident.) Still, the Los Angeles native insists she only has the fondest memories of her time in the southern city.
“I grew up in West LA, then moved to Pasadena, and those kinds of familial, tight-knit Black groups just didn’t exist. LA is spread out in a lot of ways,” she said. “To me, Atlanta ultimately built this woman that I am today and [is] why I speak so comfortably for us and for Black people. I had to have that entire experience.”
"To me, Atlanta ultimately built this woman that I am today and [is] why I speak so comfortably for us and for Black people."
It’s been 16 years since Champion moved from Atlanta and her career, as well as her desire to center Black voices in her work, has soared. After working as an anchor and court-side reporter for The Tennis Channel, she spent nearly a decade working as a host and anchor on ESPN for shows such as First Take and SportsCenter.
By the time she began hosting Cari & Jemele: Stick to Sports, on Vice TV with Jemele Hill in 2020, Champion had increasingly become determined to shun the notion that only sports reporters and athletes could credibly discuss sports. The Vice show featured guests such as LeBron James and Magic Johnson, but also Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist Nikole Hannah-Jones and Sen. Cory Booker.
At a time when America was reckoning with its racial history, Champion solidified herself as a trailblazer for Black women in sports media, as well as a crucial voice for cultural commentary. Today, she regularly appears on CNN discussing sports, culture, and politics.
Champion is now hosting the fourth season of the podcast Naked with Cari Champion on The Black Effect Podcast Festival, which is a partnership between iHeartMedia and Charlamagne Tha God, a media personality and a friend. “We kind of grew up together in this game. And when we first started figuring out or getting attention on a different type of level than we were used to, we learned a lot together,” she said of Charlamagne. “He put this network together for people who are beginning [and] people who are old-heads in the business. He wanted to make sure that all of us had a voice.”
It’s been an adjustment for a traditional TV reporter to transition into podcasting, but Champion said she’s found the medium to be a “much more freeing world.” When she’s speaking to guests such as talk show host Tamron Hall, singer Muni Long, or retired athlete Sanya Richards-Ross, she can “get lost in a conversation” and embrace a more casual environment than the structure of a cable TV show would allow.
Behind the scenes, Champion’s still doing her part to make sure there continues to be a pipeline of Black and brown women in journalism and beyond, too.
In 2018, she launched the nonprofit Brown Girls Dream and enlisted her celebrity friends to help mentor young women in a way that she felt she was never able to receive in the early years of her own career. “When I was at ESPN, I used to get all these emails from different Black and brown girls in the business. They wanted to talk to me about how they could [have the opportunity to] do the same thing [as me],” Champion said. “It fills my heart to see somebody actually get an opportunity to talk to somebody who can guide them through their career.”
Current Brown Girls Dream mentors include journalists Jemele Hill and Nichelle Turner, marketing executive Bozoma Saint John, and more. “These women are just the dopest ever and they take time out to give back to brown girls,” Champion said. “It’s special.”
When she reflects on representation in sports media roles, the Naked host said she’s inspired by the women of color she sees on television today. “I think women of color are doing great. It’s become more and more common to be on air and be Black girl magic,” she said.
“I think that the next level for us, in terms of Black and brown women in this business succeeding, is having true power over what our words are and what the content is,” she added. “Because, when push comes to shove and we want to really tell a story, we sometimes have to acquiesce, and we can't tell the story the way we want to. The next level is that we actually do have editorial control.”
"I think that the next level for us, in terms of Black and brown women in this business succeeding, is having true power over what our words are and what the content is."
Ultimately, Champion is still dreaming and looking to make an impact. She said she wants to eventually launch her own Black news network. “I would love to have a huge platform that focused on the stories that I think Black and brown women care about,” Champion said. “There are so many stories that are being missed.”
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Featured image Emma McIntyre / Staff/Getty Images