

This past December, like many other descendants of the African diaspora hoping to end 2019 with a bang, I went to Accra, Ghana for what the country deemed---in arguably the most successful tourism marketing plan to date---the "Year of the Return". Anchored by the Afrochella festival as well as newcomer, Afronation, the return to Ghana was anticipated to be an opportunity to connect with our roots, party, unwind, and enjoy great food and culture. After securing my *whispers* very affordable flight in November, I was ready. Or so I thought.
Unlike most trips, coordinating all the moving parts in Ghana took a bit more advanced planning, patience, and research than I was used to. But after getting everything in place, I was so excited!
This was being heralded as the place to be for the holidays, where everybody and they mama (or Beyonce's mama) were expected. And Accra delivered! During my three weeks in Ghana, I partied in the jungle in Aburi, crossed the seven bridges in Kukum, visited the Elmina and Cape Coast slave dungeons, ate a traditional Fulani mat dinner, saw the dopest fire-breather performance at Polo Beach Club, ate at the famous Buka restaurant, danced the night away at Bloom Bar, and connected with amazing friends both old and new.
I also encountered a lot of things that, if avoided, would have enhanced my trip that much more. Here are 10 things to keep in mind to optimize your experience if attending "Beyond the Return" this December:
Courtesy of Amanda Gayle
Follow All Medical Precautions, Both Required And Recommended
One of the consequences of my late travel arrangements were the limited remaining options in finding a yellow fever provider within my budget. After finally settling on an office, I paid my whopping $265, and received my yellow fever card and malaria prescription. But to my dismay, when I landed in Ghana, border control could care less about my little yellow fever card and didn't even open it. I must have been so disappointed that I actually lost it and haven't seen it since. Welp. Funny enough though, during my departure, border control insisted on seeing it. But for the gift of gab, I'd likely still be there trying to convince them why I didn't need to receive another shot just to fly home. But I digress.
While experiences varied, most opted to receive the yellow fever shot in the States, despite its availability at the airport for the affordable price of *drumroll* $20.
Did I know that? No. But now you do. You're welcome. Ultimately, it's up to you to decide where you're most comfortable getting the shot, but once you do, keep your card handy.
After filling your recommended malaria prescription, do yourself a favor and actually take them. I avoided them initially after hearing horror stories of people having nightmares and stomach pain, but, take them. You don't want to end up like me in a pharmacy on your way to a friend's fashion show feenin' for malaria pills like Halle Berry in Jungle Fever because a mosquito bit you in Kukum and the "cold" you thought you had sounds more like malaria, according to WebMD. Luckily, the pharmacists in Ghana are fantastic and wonderfully patient. They promptly tested me for it and luckily, it turned out I didn't have malaria---just a bad cold. But I could have had it. Take your pills.
Don't Nickel-And-Dime Your Accommodations
The Kempinski Hotel, a great option for a stay in Ghana.
Image via kempinski.com
As Americans when we think of budget hotels, we think of a no-frills, no-fuss Holiday Inn which at the very least are clean and at best are quite nice. (The Holiday Inn in New Orleans even has a rooftop pool). Even budget or boutique hotels in Europe deliver quality with the occasional luxury surprise. During my layover in Portugal, for example, I stayed at the most amazing boutique hotel for $52 and was wonderfully surprised by how nice it was.
But in Ghana, budget hotels, aka those under $75 a night, take on a different meaning. For brevity's sake I'll spare you the stressful details. Let's just say some of my very worst days were spent making special requests for running water, dealing with hotel managers who didn't understand that it isn't OK for the electricity to disconnect every hour, or canceling confirmed reservations.
Save yourself the hassle. Spring for the nice hotel.
Listen, I get it, traveling can be expensive, especially if you're staying somewhere for an extended period of time. If you can't quite afford the Kempinski, Alisa Hotel is a great affordable choice, but don't nickel-and-dime your experience. It'll cost you more in the end.
Courtesy of Amanda Gayle
Pack Your Patience
As a born-and-bred New Yorker, most would assume that I'm used to a fast-paced, hustle-and-bustle lifestyle, and they're right. New Yorkers tend to move at lightning speed, always running for the train or to work and keeping up with our busy lives. As a New Yorker who also drives, I'm equally accustomed to insane traffic, but Ghana was on a whole other level. I can't count how many times I had to just get out of my Uber and walk the remainder of the way. Not a patient person?
I strongly suggest staying very close to where most of your events and activities will take place to avoid getting stuck.
Courtesy of Amanda Gayle
Consider A Tour Company
As you're planning your trip, you'll quickly see that there are literally hundreds of tour companies ready to take you on every excursion and curate your trip for you.
Usually I would caution visitors against booking tour companies to save a few coins, but in Ghana, a trusted tour company may actually enhance your trip.
Some of my favorite experiences were planned by a tour guide. My friend had used him several times before and not only was he well informed about the estimated travel time and where to go to get the best/safest food on the route, he even knew the manager of the Cape Coast castle who let us in at closing because we were stuck in traffic.
I also really enjoyed some local events planned by TasteMakers including the most beautiful Fulani Christmas dinner hosted at Olma Colonial Suites. The food was delicious, we learned about the Fulani culture and the vibes were perfect. I enjoyed it so much, I ventured to my second Tastemakers event later that week, the Cookout. After being there for an hour I lovingly renamed it Grits in Ghana (Don't try me. My trademark is pending) and deservedly so. The DJ executed dope NYE vibes, the drinks were strong and free, and the space was perfect. In the future, I'd confidently attend any other events they plan. But do your research. Read reviews. Find a company that you trust, think about where you want to go and consider whether a company would enhance your experience.
Choose Your Concert Wisely
So part of the draw to visit Ghana during the holiday season is the festival experience, specifically Afrochella. Known for the opportunity for the flyest and most daring to show up and show out in their best African garb, people come from everywhere to perch up as royalty and be among the lit. However, as a budding festival, Afrochella may need some more time to find their footing, as the actual concert experience was lacking.
Most of the night, in lieu of actual performances, there were DJ sets and well into the early morning hours, a sprinkle of performances from virtually unknown artists. I was really disappointed, after declining friends' invitations to attend Afronation, which by most accounts turned out to be the better concert, bringing out Burna Boy and other fan favorites. I also heard good things about the Detty Rave concert, but unfortunately missed it because of my cold.
Ultimately, even though Afrochella is the original event and may still be worth a visit for vibes, consider your other options.
Prepare For Long Commutes
One of the biggest surprises for me when I got to Ghana was how far away most of the special sites were. Not only was Cape Coast a three-hour ride away, most of the nice beaches (aside from Labadi Beach) including Bojo Beach were at least 90 minutes away from the City Center. The same was true for Aburi Gardens and Aqua Safari, which are definitely must-see destinations. Some places are so far, I highly suggest preparing for a full day trip to each destination and possibly even staying overnight to avoid the traffic. If you opt out of staying overnight, pack on your patience because although traffic in the A.M is bearable, you may not be so chill about it after a day's worth of activity.
Carry Cash
Courtesy of Amanda Gayle
While credit cards are accepted, cash rules everything out in Ghana. From bargaining for souvenirs to getting into parties or a certain Members Only Club (I see you, Front & Back), having Ghana cedis on hand, will definitely yield better results.
Indulge In Local Cuisine But Be Careful
So, in my veiled non-medical medical advice above, I may have left out one of the reasons I got sick during the trip. When I first arrived, I was so excited I opened my mouth while brushing my teeth and ingested some water a la Charlotte in Sex and the City 2. Now, that may not have been the only reason I experienced "the runaways" but many cautioned me against ice in my drinks and indulging in sauces. I didn't listen. You do better.
Decide Between Uber Vs. Private Drivers
Contrary to what most people have heard about Africa---Ghana specifically---it is a well-developed country and they do have Uber. However, be prepared for smaller cars and cash payments. In order for your Uber app to even work in Ghana, you'll need to update your settings to cash payments and use a local Sim card. Bolt is another option which usually offers an introductory promotion for reduced rides.
You can choose to hire a private driver if you need a larger vehicle or if you just want to have someone at your beck and call. Just be sure to estimate the price of rides in advance and get some referrals from friends in travel groups who have gone to Ghana.
Know Your Intentions For Visiting
Courtesy of Amanda Gayle
Most important when traveling to Ghana is knowing why you're going. Most people visit during the holidays to mix and mingle with celebrities, attend the flyest parties, and meet their African prince and princess. If that's you, do you. Live it up. However, if you're visiting to truly immerse yourself in the culture, opt for more of those experiences and be intentional in seeking them out. One of my intentions in visiting Ghana was to volunteer and impact the youth, so I was so excited to volunteer for Afrochella Reads, an opportunity to visit and spend time with Ghanaian orphans during their school day. It was truly one of the top highlights of my trip.
Volunteering not your thing? Take a cooking class and learn how to compete in the jollof wars. Visit the Shea Butter Museum and discover the source of the ultimate ash warrior, the gift of shea butter. Whatever your interests are, Ghana has so much to offer. The opportunities for enriching experiences are numerous. Once you strip away the glitzy appeal, the rooftops, and the mystique about Ghana, remember that there is a rich culture and local experiences that are way more valuable than rubbing elbows with Boris and Nicole. Focus on being present and make the most of your return.
xoNecole is always looking for new voices and empowering stories to add to our platform. If you have an interesting story or personal essay that you'd love to share, we'd love to hear from you. Contact us at submissions@xonecole.com.
Featured Image via Amanda Gayle
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After Decades-Long Career, Terri J. Vaughn Is Finally The Main Character: Exclusive
Terri J. Vaughn first captured our attention in the late ‘90s as Lovita Alizay Jenkins on The Steve Harvey Show. Decades later, she is starring in her very own series, She The People, which is now available to stream on Netflix.
The political sitcom, which she co-created with Niya Palmer and later teamed up with Tyler Perry Studios, is about a Black woman named Antoinette Dunkerson who runs for lieutenant governor of Mississippi. She wins and becomes the state’s first Black lieutenant governor. Now, she’s forced to balance working with a racist and sexist governor while also trying to keep her family from running amok.
According to the beloved actress, this project was a long time coming. “I’ve been trying to get my own television series for like 20 years, pounding the pavement, meeting with people, getting clothes, being lied to, just a whole bunch of stuff,” she says in an exclusive interview with xoNecole.
“But just keep going, because this is what I do. This is what I love, and I know how important it is for us to continue to show up and make sure that we are seen, make sure that our voices are heard. For several reasons. I just never give up. So here I am, 20 years later, finally sold my show.”
She The People is inspired by the true story of London Breed, who became the first Black female mayor of San Francisco, Terri’s hometown. And to help make the show more authentic, the Cherish the Day actress tapped former Atlanta mayor, Keisha Lance Bottoms to come on as a producer.'“I’ve been trying to get my own television series for like 20 years, pounding the pavement, meeting with people, getting clothes, being lied to, just a whole bunch of stuff."
After bringing the former mayor aboard, it was time to pitch again. And this time, the companies were pitching them. Ultimately, Terri decided to work with Tyler Perry on the series.
“We decided to do it with Tyler for several reasons. I love that. Well, most of the companies we met with were Black-owned companies, but he was the only studio,” she explains. “Tyler is like Walt Disney. That's literally what he is. He has the studio, he has the content. He operates just like Walt Disney.”
And thanks to the cast, the show is nothing short of laughs. The series also stars social media creator Jade Novah as Antoinette’s crazy cousin/ assistant, Shamika, Family Mattersstar Jo Marie Payton as Anotinette’s mom, Cleo, and Terri’s husband, Karon Riley, who plays Michael, her driver and love interest.
While we’ve watched Terri’s career blossom in various ways. From directing to producing, and playing diverse characters, the mom of two says her The Steve Harvey Show character will always be her favorite.
“Well, Lovita was definitely my favorite, especially for my time, the age and everything that I was. Now as a grown ass woman over 50, Antoinette Dunkerson is everything that I've wanted to play. She's everything. She's a mother of two teenagers. She's divorced, so she's co-parenting with her ex-husband. She has to wrangle in a very eclectic family,” she says.
“So I like playing characters that are really flawed and trying to figure it out and doing their best to try to figure it. And she's very flawed and she is trying to figure it out, and she fucks up sometimes. But her heart and what she's trying to do and what her vision is and purpose, it's all for the people. I mean, she the people. She’s for the people, she is the people.”
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Feature image by Jamie Lamor Thompson/ Shutterstock
Black, Outside & Thriving: This Camping Itinerary Is The Reset You Deserve
Here's something many Black folk don’t always see us doing—but we absolutely should: camping. Yeah, I know. Bugs, wild animals, dirt, and no WiFi? That Black camping itinerary might sound like the start of a horror movie, right? But hear me out.
Many of us may have grown up thinking camping was something we just don’t do, and we have good reasons to decline or be apprehensive. I mean, none of us, our parents, nor our ancestors grew up jumping for joy to add a sprinkle of redlining, discrimination, exclusion, cultural disconnection, and access challenges to our outdoor recreation activities, right?
Well, I’ve been on safaris in South Africa, hiked waterfall-lined paths in Jamaica, and enjoyed sunset tequila tastings at high-end Mexican resorts, but camping? It was definitely a surprisingly fun 10-out-of-10 adventure I’d gladly embark on again. When Kampgrounds of America (KOA) invited me to join a Black camper’s retreat hosted by Black People Outside at the Cape Charles Chesapeake Bay KOA Resort in Virginia, I couldn’t say no.
I mean, while camping for some of us might be a hard pass, for me, it was an opportunity to reconnect with a childhood memory, try out glamping in a state-of-the-art camper, and see a part of Virginia that I didn’t grow up visiting as a child in the Hampton Roads communities my maternal family called home back then.
RISE IN INTEREST: Black Folk Camping And Creating Safe Spaces
Kameron Stanton, left, and Chevon Linear, founders of Black People Outside
Courtesy
And my adult curiosity and affinity for the outdoors are shared by a growing number of my peers. Black people made up 14% of campers in 2024, an increase from 11% in 2019, according to a recent KOA report. There’s an emerging trend of Black campers taking on nature-centered adventures like skiing, foraging, hiking, and van dwelling.
We’re definitely not new to this, but certainly true to it—from author and anthropologist Zora Neal Hurston to pioneering park ranger Betty Reid Soskin to Outdoor Afro founder Rue Mapp to the many other women who have boldly advocated for liberation, inclusion, and exploration in outdoor spaces.
And with Black People Outside, founded by Chicago-based couple Kameron Stanton and Chevon “Chev” Linear, the Black camping experience reflected something that happens whenever we show up to the party: cultural connection, unapologetic fun, good vibes, and our own unique flair for soul-stirring memories. I enjoyed a luxe VIP stay in a Platinum Salem RV among the who’s who of media, and it was divine.
So, whether you’re looking for a reset in a world where we’re constantly navigating microaggressions and systemic stress, or you just want something fun and off-the-beaten path for your next travel rendezvous, take a nod from this camping itinerary, perfect to celebrate Black joy and community:
WHERE I STAYED: Glamping In A Luxury RV Rental In Cape Charles, Va.
The beach side of Kampgrounds of America's Cape Charles, Va. property
Courtesy of Kampgrounds of America (KOA)
For this trip, I stayed in a Salem Fsx Platinum RV that was rented via RVShare.com. (Think of it like the Airbnb of camper rentals.) You basically filter for the type, location, and other amenities, and you book the camper.
With KOA, you can visit their website or use their app to find a campsite for parking the RV among one of their more than 500 campgrounds across the U.S.
You can have the RV delivered to the KOA campsite of your choosing (depending on the rental, host policies, and rates). I highly recommend letting the host set it up, especially as a newbie camper. The KOA staff was also very helpful in assisting when I needed anything explained or a small hiccup resolved. (I’m no expert on the ins and outs of outdoor plumbing, electrical hookups, and camper pull-out features, so this comes in handy.)
Cabins at Kampgrounds of America's Cape Charles, Va. site
Courtesy of Kampgrounds of America (KOA)
Let’s get into the top-tier features of this camper: It had a master bedroom with a smart TV, a closet, and shelf space. The bathroom had a vanity, cabinet space, and a shower (with an adjustable shower head and hot water with great pressure). There was digital AC and heating in both the bedroom and the front of the camper, along with a dining nook and a kitchen with lots of cabinet space, a full-sized stove, refrigerator, and microwave.
I enjoyed a lot of time in the camper's lounge area with a smart TV and fireplace. The RV was decorated like a modern studio apartment on wheels. There was also a guest room with bunk beds, storage, and games. Outside, there was a retractable awning, LED lights, and a sound system (that played music by the fire pit!)
I stocked my fridge with all my dream camp snacks, hosted an impromptu late-night pow-wow (to bring the party inside during the campsite’s “quiet hours”), and used KOA’s inclusive WiFi access, which was strong and reliable my whole time there.
WHAT I DID: Lodging Options, Town Exploration & Recreation
Hiking in Kiptopeke State Park in Cape Charles, Va.
Courtesy
If you don’t want to rent an RV, the Cape Charles KOA campground also offered safari tents (that look just like the ones I saw in South Africa), grass lots to build your own tents and set up, cabins that reminded me of Bermuda cottages, and drive-up options for groups with RVs. There was an on-site pool, private beach access, a beach-side restaurant and bar, and a welcome center that offered souvenirs, information, and snacks.
I also learned how to pitch a tent from scratch (via a completion where my teammate and I won a bottle of sparkling wine), how to start a fire from scratch (a lesson led by Kameron), and the best ways to find a good hiking trail in your community (Kameron and Chev walked us through Kiptopeke State Park, where there are opportunities for bird watching, kayaking, yurt camping, fishing and swimming at the beach.)
And if you want to take things to another level, charter a boat or rent one via a hosting platform or with recommendations from the KOA staff. Go fishing or just enjoy a recreational day out on the Chesapeake Bay.
SAFETY & INCLUSION
The winning tent-building duo at the KOA campground in Cape Charles, Va.
Courtesy
Now, safety: The whole time, I felt loved and welcome, as the KOA campground in Cape Charles was a secure property that required access cards, had staff readily available day and night, enforced rules on speed limits and quiet hours, and had decent lighting around the grounds. I also felt a sense of peace and rest because nobody really bothered me. Either people were super-friendly or just minded their business, and I didn’t mind that.
There was lots of laughter, ish-talking, roasted s'mores, wine, and dancing among a diverse group of Black women creatives, journalists, PR pros, podcast hosts, and authors—and that brought on a profoundly magical sense of security and connection in and of itself.
Also, camping—as any experience for me, due to my worldview—is what you make it. The KOA staff were super-helpful and personable, Chev cooked divine breakfast tacos and a crab boil with locally sourced seafood, our hosts created a Spotify playlist filled with reggae, dancehall, salsa, R&B and hip-hop hits we all loved, and I even met the owner of the camper, a kind, tatted, middle-aged family man who shared his journey into entrepreneurship and his love for customer service.
We spent the final night of the trip with a little party by the fire pit and a viewing of Super High, a clever animated film about fibroids, cannabis, and self-care by a fellow camper on the trip, Bianca Lambert, and celebrated the upcoming birthday of another amazing media entrepreneur, Nneka M. Okona.
Time well spent with amazing Black creatives, journalists, PR pros, and authors in Cape Charles, Va.
Courtesy
We took a drive into “town,” which for any small community near water is where all the action is. There were breakfast diners, seafood spots right by the water, art galleries, and bars. While there may have been a few blank stares here and there, I found most folk to be friendly enough to return a “Hello,” or a smile. (And those who didn't, I really don't regard as worthy of disturbing my peace and openness to fully enjoy a new experience.)
The shops were diverse both in nature, vibe, and offerings. One shop even had items made in Kenya, Mexico, and Guatemala, and, according to the woman behind the counter, advocates for the women creatives and artisans who made the items.
Camping offers revolutionary rest, freedom, and healing—an act of self-care and reconnection. When Black folk show up in nature, for ourselves and for our communities, it’s powerful, reminding everyone that the mountains, the trees, the oceans, the rivers—they all belong to us, too. It’s now a bucket-list travel adventure I'd gladly repeat.
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Featured image courtesy of Janell Hazelwood