Jessica Cruel picked her career path in a way that one might imagine she would if she were a fictional magazine editor: She decided she wanted to be a journalist by taking a quiz.
The career quiz, which was a part of a class she was taking in high school, intrigued Cruel. Still, she knew if she were to become a reporter, it wouldn’t be for a newspaper. “I had this dream of wearing a really fly suit, living in a big city – because I’m from a small town [in] the south – [and] working in some big, fancy building,” she says. “I landed on fashion magazines.”
For her senior project, Cruel oversaw the publication of a magazine she named Onyx, including facilitating photo shoots and writing an editorial letter. Onyx, she says, was designed to serve Black teens.
Cruel became the editor-in-chief of Allure in 2021, achieving a lifelong goal after amassing the necessary tools to land the job in various roles throughout the media industry. In her current role atop the masthead of Conde Nast’s beauty magazine, she’s worked to bring the publication from “on high” and make it more accessible to readers, including Black women who look like her. She’s also worked to usher the brand into the digital era with last year’s announcement that the Allure would no longer have a print edition.
As a high school and college student, Cruel says she wasn’t ignorant of the fact that magazines weren’t very diverse. Still, she was motivated by the thought that she could contribute to changing the makeup of the industry. An internship at Self introduced her to the idea that this could be done through covering beauty.
“I was so impressed by the science of it all. It felt so accessible,” she says. “I think fashion always felt out of my reach. I’m Black. I got natural hair. I’m curvy as hell. And I’m from Georgia. I never felt like I fit into fashion, but then I got to [Self’s] beauty closet and I was like there are so many things here that I can use and that feel welcome to me. Even the people in Georgia can go to the Walgreens and get the thing that we’re recommending, for a price they can afford.”
"I think fashion always felt out of my reach. I'm Black. I got natural hair. I'm curvy as hell. And I'm from Georgia. I never felt like I fit into fashion."
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Being a native Southerner who grew up in Albany, Georgia, informs a lot of Cruel’s perspective as an editor. As a Black woman working in mainstream media, she’s often worked for brands that her friends don’t read because the content feels like it wasn’t created with them in mind.
Cruel is also no stranger to working with writers who have felt their works have to incorporate explanatory commas to educate non-Black readers at the expense of alienating Black audiences. This awareness inspired Cruel to launch the Allure vertical The Melanin Edit when she was still the content director at Allure. “I just thought, my friends don’t read Allure, but they would if they knew there was a vertical just for them,” she says.
The Melanin Edit was inspired by Unbothered, a Refinery29 vertical that was created to cater to Black readers, shortly before Cruel began working at the digital publication as deputy beauty director in 2018.
This year, Cruel oversaw the launch of an inaugural live event for Allure’s signature Best of Beauty tentpole. For 27 years, readers have turned to the magazine to figure out the best beauty products. In 2023, beauty editors tested more than 8,000 products before deciding on the winning 391 items. Cruel, who says she’s been craving an opportunity to have some face-to-face time with Allure readers, sees Best of Beauty: The Live Event as a way to do just that.
Last month, celebrities such as John Legend were on hand for the event, which also featured “master classes” and a chance for readers to visit a Conde Nast magazine’s beauty closet just as Cruel did as an intern for Self.
Eugene Gologursky/Getty Images for Allure
“I believe we are doing a great service by making [Best of Beauty] modern [and] doing it in a way that can keep this legacy alive. The way it was built 27 years ago wouldn't necessarily allow it to survive and thrive in this year so we have to upgrade,” Cruel says of the event.
The beauty editor uses her social media platforms to continue this work of making beauty more accessible, especially to Black women who look like her. Recent Instagram Reels have chronicled her receiving treatments, including Hyperdilute Radiesse filler for necklines, a Pico laser to address dark spots and texture, and a Kobido face massage for an “instant flush.”
“I think every treatment people have been able to get for years, we should also be able to get, and we should be able to get safely and to our desires,” she says. “Unfortunately, the science hasn’t caught up yet to give us everything. It’s really important to me that what we convey is the safety of it all. What’s the safest way for you to get it? I’ve been turned away from treatments before, even as a beauty editor. That was many years ago, but I don’t want anyone to ever feel like that. I want them to be able to come to Allure and be like I read on Allure that this is okay for us.”
Beyond this, she’s also using her social media accounts to make the role of editor-in-chief more accessible and relatable to other thirty-something women who are navigating their own corporate jobs, as well as dating and homeownership. As much as she shows herself attending galas, she also wants to be honest about how she navigates life at the top of the masthead by going to the gym in the mornings, cooking dinner for herself at least once a week, and managing her anxiety with Lexapro.
"I think so many of us are in the same place in corporate America, finding our way, becoming bosses [and] leveling up."
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While an evolution is a natural progression that happens as businesses grow, a rebrand is a total change. Lola tells xoNecole, "A total rebrand is necessary when a business’s current reputation/what it’s known for is at odds with the business’s vision or direction.
"For example, if you’ve fundamentally changed what your product is and does, it’s likely that your brand is out of alignment with the business. Or, if you find your company is developing a reputation that doesn’t serve it, it might be time to pump the brakes and figure out what needs to change.
She continues, "Sometimes you’ll see companies (especially startups) announce a name change that comes with updated messaging, visuals, etc. That usually means their vision has changed or expanded, and their previous branding was too narrow/couldn’t encompass everything they planned to do."
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The Brand Doula was born in 2019, and its focus is on putting "the experiences, goals, and needs of women of color founders first," as well as brands with "culture-shifting missions."
According to Lola, culture-shifting is "the act of influencing dominant behavior, beliefs, or experiences in a community or group (ideally, for the better)."
"At The Brand Doula, we work with companies and leaders that set out to challenge the status quo in their industries and communities. They’re here to make an impact that sends ripples across the market," she says.
"We help the problem solvers of the world — the ones who aren't satisfied with 'this is how it's always been' and instead ask 'how could this be better?' Our clients build for impact, reimagining tools, systems, and ways of living to move cultures forward."
The Brand Doula has worked with many brands, including Too Collective, to assist with their collaboration with Selena Gomez's Rare Beauty and Balanced Black Girl for a "refresh," aka rebrand. For businesses looking to rebrand, Lola shares four essential steps.
1. Do an audit of your current brand experience — what’s still relevant and what needs to change? Reflect on why you’re doing the rebrand in the first place and what success would look like after relaunching.
2. Tackle the overall strategy first — before you start redesigning logos and websites, align on a new vision for your brand. How do you want your company to be positioned moving forward? Has your audience changed at all? Will your company have a fresh personality and voice?
3. Bring your audience along the journey — there’s no need to move in secret. Inviting your current audience into the journey can actually help them feel more connected to and invested in your story, enough to stick around as changes are being made.
4. Keep business moving — one of my biggest pet peeves is when companies take down their websites as soon as they have the idea to rebrand, then have a Coming Soon page up for months! You lose a lot of momentum and interest by doing that. If you’re still in business and generating income, continue to operate while you work on your rebrand behind the scenes. You don’t want to cut existing customers off out of the blue, and you also don’t want so much downtime that folks forget your business exists or start looking for other solutions.
While determining whether the rebrand was successful may take a few months, Lola says a clear sign that it is unsuccessful is negative feedback from your target audience. "Customers are typically more vocal about what they don’t like more than what they do like," she says.
But some good signs to look out for are improvements in engagement with your marketing, positive reviews, press and increase in retention, and overall feeling aligned with the new branding.
For more information about Lola and The Brand Doula, visit her website, thebranddoula.com.
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Whether you find yourself always being the first one to reach out after meeting a new person or you flop when it comes to really connecting with someone after a session of networking, you're not alone. It's common to struggle with keeping in touch with new people you've met, especially when life starts life-ing, but it doesn't have to be an annoying, petty dance of who's going to call who.
Here are a few steps that have helped me, as an extroverted introvert seeking more adult friendships and new professional connections, keep the good vibes going beyond that first happy hour or conference link-up.
1. Simply put: Unapologetically make the first, second, third, or even fourth move after meeting.
Sometimes, we do have to humble ourselves and put in a bit more effort, especially if our goal for this year (or next) is to expand our network and make new friends or industry-support peers. Reach out for that second, third, or fourth time, even if it feels a bit weird.
At my big age, I recently found myself thinking, "I've already made the first move to keep in touch. Why should I follow up again?" but immediately, in doing the self-work, I was led to the thought, "Why not? Who does it hurt?"
It's really not about a battle of wits or pride but a bottom line of what you really want out of life. Are you willing to let go of a few hang-ups to be that person who reaches out a bit more than you might be used to in order to rebuild or renew your social circle? Does it really matter that you had to call, email, or text more than once in order to finally be able to meet up?
If you find that you're the only one after those first few outings, making the first invites or taking initiative, or your attempts to connect are being ignored, at least you know you gave it your best shot, and you've pushed yourself to grow a bit more in the process of expanding your social circle.
2. Find specific commonalities and build off of that in order to keep the engagement going.
If you meet someone at a conference, for example, make plans to meet up at the next one. Maybe you've found out about a great event that might enhance a new acquaintance's skills or help them in their careers. Invite them to attend with you. Oftentimes, people place value on their time and the people they choose to spend it with, and while relationships shouldn't just be built on a "What can you do for me?" approach, we have to consider that as adults, there should be some sort of common ground that gives the budding new relationship a leg to stand on.
Are you both parents? Maybe a play date for the two of you and your kids is a great option. Newlyweds? Go on a double date. Love to travel and know you're going to be in the same city or country next month? Make real plans to link up or travel together. Into fitness? Schedule walks or fun activities together or coordinate times to meet up at the gym.
Step out on faith, humble yourself, and be open to the possibilities of this, and, above all, have fun with it so it doesn't feel like pressure.
3. Share fun, educational, or relatable information on a regular basis.
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It's great when someone in your network thinks of you and sends a relevant article, program information, or educational tidbit that might help you in your career and vice versa. Again, adding value is part of nurturing adult relationships, and this is a great way to spark conversations, find ways to deeply engage, or show who you are and what you're into.
Whether it's an email, social share, or a quick chat to catch up, find ways to connect with the sharing of useful, fun, or interesting information. It doesn't always take a 30-minute call or long text thread to keep in touch with someone. Sometimes, a simple forwarded email with a mention that you're thinking of someone can go a long way to keep the lines of communication going. This is also a way to be more subtle and less forceful when trying to stay in touch with someone new.
4. Respond to texts, emails, and/or calls within 48 hours.
I know people fight for their lives debating about this online, but I think it's fair to at least acknowledge someone's call, text, or email with a follow-up within at least two days after receipt unless there's a major reason you can't. And even if there is a reason, a simple "I've received your message and will get back to you soon" will suffice. Keep it real if you're super busy or going through something personal so that the person doesn't feel like you're simply brushing them off.
I know, I know. You might be thinking, "We're adults. They should know we get busy and life happens." While this is true, making a commitment to expand your network will require a bit more transparency and trust on your part. You might be stepping out of your comfort zone, but that's what new experiences are all about.
Again, if networking and growing your social and professional circles is really a goal, you have to be available, strategic, and open to actually connecting with people. This isn't something you can do in a casual way since, for these purposes, you truly want to enhance your quality of life by making sure you are interacting with and building relationships with other amazing people.
While you won't be able to force things---as you shouldn't---trying these four simple steps serves as a good starting point to show that you're serious about making and keeping new friends to help you navigate the career success you deserve.
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