On Beyoncé's IVY PARK & The Expectations Of Black Creatives' Profitability
It’s been a few weeks since the fashion industry was shaken to its core with the announcement of a co-designed collaboration between Beyoncé and Balmain. Since then, the newly released images have saturated the internet and group chats alike as the fashion industry tries to piece together the journey of Beyoncé's design career. It wasn’t too long ago that ADIDAS and Beyoncé cut ties on IVY PARK, with ADIDAS retaining ownership of the brand and parting ways with the woman who founded it all, leaving many to say, “Now, what?”
For those unfamiliar, here’s a quick history of how IVY PARK came to be.
Where IVY Park Began
GiphyBeyoncé created IVY PARK in 2016 with Phillip Green, the mogul behind TOPSHOP. Beyoncé was able to launch IVY PARK to her global audience with an international company like TOPSHOP, but amidst scandal in 2018, Beyoncé acquired full ownership of her company. A year later, Beyoncé announced a position as a creative design partner with ADIDAS and subsequently decided to relaunch IVY PARK under its umbrella, championing it as the "partnership of a lifetime."
In 2020, the first collection was released, featuring gender-neutral clothing and four footwear styles, celebrating "power, freedom, and individuality for anyone who has the confidence to take chances and live unapologetically." The brand handed Beyoncé full creative control and a nice $20 million annual paycheck, with the hopes of replicating the success of Kanye West's Yeezy but appealing to women.
The Demise of IVY PARK
GiphyTo the average consumer, IVY PARK seems like a cash cow for the sneaker brand, but unfortunately, that was not the case. Despite the iconic iconography and cult social moments that accompanied each IVY PARK drop, only 5 of the 6 collections (not including this year's) sold roughly half of the merchandise that was produced. In fact, in February, ADIDAS reported a 50% loss over the last year for IVY PARK. Ultimately, with Beyoncé's contract set to end this year, the teams agreed to part ways with the future of IVY PARK to be determined.
According to the Wall Street Journal, Beyoncé and ADIDAS creative teams disagreed on how to label and market their products, with ADIDAS pushing for IVY PARK to align more with the overall aesthetic of the brand. It could be argued that this shift, to make IVY PARK fit in rather than stand-out, led to the demise of the brand. If a consumer can shop the same look for less on the ADIDAS website, why wouldn't they do that? The strategy seemed to dismiss the very reason IVY PARK catapulted to success; losing that unique and innovative feeling of its past.
Another significant element to the demise of this partnership was Kanye West, and the void left when ADIDAS released him in late 2022. The Void of Ye and ADIDAS' failures with their overall business and marketing strategy resulted in IVY PARK being overpromised and under-delivering. In trying to mitigate the loss gap, prices for IVY PARK have increased over the year, with the highest-selling item increasing to $600 versus $300 with TOPSHOP.
A Monumental New Beginning
GiphyThis recent deal, and her subsequent announcement with Balmain, put a huge spotlight on an ongoing conversation within the luxury fashion industry: the expectations of a Black creative’s profitability. Too often, the measurement of success placed on Black people far outweighs those of their white counterparts. One could point to as recently as 2021, when Rihanna paused her luxury line with LVMH “pending better conditions,” despite the line only launching in 2019.
Even further back in the history books of fashion, one could point to Anne Lowe and Jay Jackson; two Black designers responsible for some of the most iconic looks of the 20th century, with little to no mainstream recognition at the time. The constant dismissal of Black talent led to overlooked appointments and expedited tenures, which created the incessant void of Black and brown people in the luxury space.
It’s a trope we’ve seen time and time again, which is why the news of Balmain and Beyoncé co-designing is so monumental. To see a project born from love and intentional on celebrating the Black creative, as opposed to profiting off of them, is a surreal experience. This collection screams authenticity in a way IVY PARK couldn’t anymore, and potentially never could again. The inspiration was her, the vision was hers, and the consumer buy-in was for her; it had nothing to do with ADIDAS.
This collection is more than optics, though. When announced, Oliver said, “this appears to be the 1st time that a Black woman has overseen the couture offering from a historic Parisian house.” Balmain wanted to pay homage to the illustrious house while honoring the heritage of this magical performer. Keep scrolling to see more images from this historic and iconic collaboration.
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Featured image by Mason Poole/Parkwood Media/Getty Images for Atlantis The Royal
Courtney is a contributing writer, based in Puerto Rico by way of Tennessee. Interested in the intersection of fashion and culture, she has an affinity for fashion, empowerment, and really good tacos. Keep up with her on Instagram (@hautecourtxo).
ItGirl 100 Honors Black Women Who Create Culture & Put On For Their Cities
As they say, create the change you want to see in this world, besties. That’s why xoNecole linked up with Hyundai for the inaugural ItGirl 100 List, a celebration of 100 Genzennial women who aren’t afraid to pull up their own seats to the table. Across regions and industries, these women embody the essence of discovering self-value through purpose, honey! They're fierce, they’re ultra-creative, and we know they make their cities proud.
VIEW THE FULL ITGIRL 100 LIST HERE.
Don’t forget to also check out the ItGirl Directory, featuring 50 Black-woman-owned marketing and branding agencies, photographers and videographers, publicists, and more.
THE ITGIRL MEMO
I. An ItGirl puts on for her city and masters her self-worth through purpose.
II. An ItGirl celebrates all the things that make her unique.
III. An ItGirl empowers others to become the best versions of themselves.
IV. An ItGirl leads by example, inspiring others through her actions and integrity.
V. An ItGirl paves the way for authenticity and diversity in all aspects of life.
VI. An ItGirl uses the power of her voice to advocate for positive change in the world.
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Rihanna Talks Shedding Expectations And Finding Balance As A Mother
Since becoming a mother in 2022, Rihanna has defined parenthood by her terms and hopes to pass that sense of autonomy on to her children.
For Vogue China’s April cover story, Rihanna shared her perspective on raising her two sons with A$AP Rocky, and how she hopes to preserve her children’s uniqueness, devoid of societal expectations.
"The most beautiful thing...is that [children] come into the world with their own individuality and sincerity, without any logic or conformity,” she told the publication. “Which usually makes you feel that you must fit into a certain group."
The “Work” artist, known for her trendsetting style and captivating persona, expressed her desire to support children in fully embracing their individuality and encouraging them to be whoever they want to be. "It's really beautiful to see and I want to continue to help them navigate that and make sure that they know they can be whoever they want to be,” she says.
She continues, “They should embrace it completely, because it's beautiful, and it's unique. I love them just that way."
From shattering music charts to shaking up the beauty industry, Rihanna has forged a path that has since created the “dream” life we see today. One that she says has made her parents proud of.
“I’m living my dream,” she continued. “My parents were very proud of that because they just wanted me to be happy and successful. So, I think the key thing is to find some kind of balance. Yes, balance is important. Do this and you get the best of both worlds. You can write your own life the way you want, and it will be beautiful. Sometimes, you just need to let go of everyone’s expectations and start living your own story.”
Rihanna, who shares sons, RZA, 23 months, and Riot, 8 months, with rapper A$AP Rocky, recently shared her vision for expanding her family in the future in Interview Magazine.
When stylist Mel Ottenberg asked about the number of additional children she hoped to have, Rihanna replied, "As many as God wants me to have.”
"I don't know what God wants, but I would go for more than two. I would try for my girl,” she adds. “But of course, if it's another boy, it's another boy."
Featured image by Neil MockfordWireImage