This Self-Taught Powerhouse Is The Visionary Behind Hanifa Clothing
When I was growing up in the South in the mid 90s, I dreamed of a day when I would see melinated women on the glossy covers. A fashion world that circulated about the diverse, beautiful and dynamic tones that saturate the real world. Somewhere else in the world there was a little girl thinking the same thing, but with the talent and the vision to make a change. That girl is Anifa Mvuemba, the self-taught powerhouse designer behind the apparel line, Hanifa. In an extremely short period of time, Anifa has taken her designs from the square grids of Instagram to the runways of New York Fashion Week.
It was my pleasure to sit down with her in the midst of a chaotic fashion month to talk about her latest collection, the challenge of overcoming your fear, and how she feels about the ever-changing landscape of the fashion industry. If you're unfamiliar with this designer, then here's your chance to find out.
What’s the most exciting thing (to you) about the fashion industry?
I do like that I'm seeing more inclusion for black people. I do enjoy seeing more shapes and curves on the covers, on TV, and fashion editorial shoots; there wasn't a lot of that before. I love looking at vintage magazines, specifically 1970's - and we are barely on the covers or even in the magazine. It's really cool to see the change.
In 'ESSENCE', you said, “I want people to support and shop Hanifa not because of my image, but because they genuinely love the clothes.” How do you stay true to that mission when personal and professional branding overlap so much?
With how social media is today, a lot of people buy into an individual. People buy into the person. I want to see my brand flourish and see them in high places. I just want people to love the clothes and want them to have a genuine love for the brand.
"I want to see my brand flourish and see them in high places. I just want people to love the clothes and want them to have a genuine love for the brand."
Your newest collection, the Pink Label, is inspired by the captivating colors of tropical islands and the natural bends and dips of a woman. Why was it important for these elements to be represented in your newest collection?
I used to design similar styles to this when I started so I wanted to revisit it. I always started with a woman's body. I admire curves. When I started, I was a size 2/4. Now I'm a size 12 and a lot of stuff doesn't fit me. That's even more of a reason for me to push that for this space; for women who feel unheard.
How do you feel when notable people (Ciara, Kelly Rowland, Cardi B) wear your designs?
It's surreal. A lot of the celebs that have worn my things, I admire them. I scream on the inside. It's really cool and very exciting. I am just very grateful. A lot of the times, it's a genuine connection. I really want whoever wears it to enjoy it.
"I always started with a woman's body. I admire curves. That's even more of a reason for me to push that for this space; for women who feel unheard."
Can you share the process of opening your first store?
I was going through a really difficult time about a year ago. I'm Christian so I wanted to pray and see what the Lord wanted me to do. If you would've asked a month beforehand, I would've said no. Just too much. But after that time, it weighed on my heart to have a store. I didn't know how I would go about it but I wanted to do it. I started researching and going through the process. A month or two later, I was planning a grand opening.
What did this process teach you?
I realized a lot of people want to experience something -- they want the connection with the brand. I think right now, I'm really enjoying meeting and seeing people who like the brand. I also like people seeing the garments in person. It's really cool to see. I don't know where it's going to go but I enjoy it a lot.
"I don't know where it's going to go but I enjoy it a lot."
It sounds like you also had a pretty significant lesson in fear and taking a chance. Can you share some tips on how to overcome fear when pursuing your dreams?
It's very tricky. I would be so anxious anytime I put something out -- I was so nervous to see how the world would receive it. I'm terrified of being criticized or it being ugly. I like to go back in the history of my work and use that as a boost of confidence. I pray a lot as well.
While we’re discussing advice, what advice do you have for emerging designers, specifically black designers?
Stay true to yourself. It's so easy to get sucked in based on what we see on a daily basis. If you want to be a black designer, align your beliefs with what we're creating. It goes hand in hand with staying true to yourself.
"If you want to be a black designer, align your beliefs with what we're creating. It goes hand in hand with staying true to yourself."
What trends are you excited about seeing this fashion month?
I really am loving the mixed prints. I'm definitely going to get more into prints and expressive patterns. On the runway: Unconventional stuff. I love that.
Lastly, what do you want the world to know that maybe you’ve haven’t able to say yet?
Lately, I've been getting a lot of girls that like the brand but are concerned with it (specifically plus size) so I'm currently working on the size range. I'm very interested in the fit and making sure everything fits plus size women better. And I know people want to get to know me, but I want that to happen organically as well.
For more of Hanifa, follow them on Instagram. Check out her new Pink Label collection here.
Courtney is a contributing writer, based in Puerto Rico by way of Tennessee. Interested in the intersection of fashion and culture, she has an affinity for fashion, empowerment, and really good tacos. Keep up with her on Instagram (@hautecourtxo).
ItGirl 100 Honors Black Women Who Create Culture & Put On For Their Cities
As they say, create the change you want to see in this world, besties. That’s why xoNecole linked up with Hyundai for the inaugural ItGirl 100 List, a celebration of 100 Genzennial women who aren’t afraid to pull up their own seats to the table. Across regions and industries, these women embody the essence of discovering self-value through purpose, honey! They're fierce, they’re ultra-creative, and we know they make their cities proud.
VIEW THE FULL ITGIRL 100 LIST HERE.
Don’t forget to also check out the ItGirl Directory, featuring 50 Black-woman-owned marketing and branding agencies, photographers and videographers, publicists, and more.
THE ITGIRL MEMO
I. An ItGirl puts on for her city and masters her self-worth through purpose.
II. An ItGirl celebrates all the things that make her unique.
III. An ItGirl empowers others to become the best versions of themselves.
IV. An ItGirl leads by example, inspiring others through her actions and integrity.
V. An ItGirl paves the way for authenticity and diversity in all aspects of life.
VI. An ItGirl uses the power of her voice to advocate for positive change in the world.
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You've Never Seen Luke James In A Role Quite Like This
Over the years, we've watched Luke James play countless characters we'd deem sex symbols, movie stars, and even his complicated character in Lena Waithe's The Chi. For the first time in his career, the New Orleans-born actor has taken on a role where his signature good looks take a backseat as he transforms into Edmund in Them: The Scare—a mentally deranged character in the second installment of the horror anthology series that you won't be able to take your eyes off.
Trust us, Edmund will literally make you do a double take.
xoNecole sat down with Luke James to talk about his latest series and all the complexity surrounding it—from the challenges taking on this out-of-the-box role to the show's depiction of the perplexing history of the relationship between Black Americans and police. When describing the opportunity to bring Edmund's character to life, Luke was overjoyed to show the audience yet another level of his masterful acting talents.
"It was like bathing in the sun," he said. "I was like, thank you! Another opportunity for me to be great—for me to expand my territory. I'm just elated to be a part of it and to see myself in a different light, something I didn't think I could do." He continued, "There are parts of you that says, 'Go for it because this is what you do.' But then also that's why it's a challenge because you're like, 'um, I don't know if I'm as free as I need to be to be able to do this.' Little Marvin just created such a safe space for me to be able to do this, and I'm grateful for everything I've been able to do to lead to this."
Courtesy
Them: The Scare, like the first season, shines a light on the plight of Black Americans in the United States. This time, the story is taking place in the 1990s, at the height of the Rodney King riots in Los Angeles. While the series presents many underlying themes, one that stands out is Black people and the complicated relationship with the police. "For the audience, I think it sets the tone for the era that we're in and the amount of chaos that's in the air in Los Angeles and around the country from this heinous incident. And I say it just sets the tone of the anxiety and anxiousness that everybody is feeling in their own households."
James has been a longtime advocate against police brutality himself. He has even featured Elijah McClain, the 23-year-old Colorado man who died after being forcibly detained by officers, as his Instagram avatar for the past five years. So, as you can imagine, this script was close to his heart. "Elijah was a soft-loving oddball. Different than anyone but loving and a musical genius. He was just open and wanted to be loved and seen."
Getty Images
Luke continued, "His life was taken from him. I resonate with his spirit and his words...through all the struggle and the pain he still found it in him to say, 'I love you and I forgive you.' And that's who we are as people—to our own detriment sometimes. He's someone I don't want people to forget. I have yet to remove his face from my world because I have yet to let go of his voice, let go of that being [because] there's so many people we have lost in our history that so often get forgotten."
He concluded, "I think that's the importance of such artwork that moves us to think and talk about it. Yes, it's entertaining. We get to come together and be spooked together. But then we come together and we think, 'Damn, Edmund needed someone to talk to. Edmund needed help... a lot [of] things could have been different. Edmund could have been saved.'
Check out the full interview below.
Luke James Talks Ditching Sex Symbol Status For "Them: The Scare", Elijah McClain, & Morewww.youtube.com
Featured image by Getty Images