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The Art of Birdwatching
I traded in my usual resort stay for the rainforest, signing up for a weeklong trek with the local eco-adventure company HADCO Experience. After a quick flight from Miami to Port of Spain and an hour and a half drive, I arrived at Asa Wright Nature Centre. The eco-lodge is nestled deep into the rainforest, far from the hum of traffic, and I immediately felt a sense of peacefulness that would follow me throughout my stay.
Guestroom at the Asa Wright Nature Centre.
Credit: HADCO Experiences/Jake Naughton
The Asa Wright Nature Center is famous for its birds (there are over 180 species of birds around the 1,500-acre property), and though I wouldn’t consider myself a bird-watching enthusiast, it was hard not to get sucked into the excitement of having an up-close encounter. One of my first finds was a toucan; the eco-lodge manager, Warren, pointed out a tiny speck on a branch and handed me a pair of binoculars. I was skeptical, but when I raised the binoculars, I was surprised to see a brightly painted bill come into focus. Birdwatchers, I get it now; there’s something a little bit magical about spotting birds in their natural habitat.
But one of the activities that most pushed me out of my comfort zone was bat hunting. Our tour leader suggested that we hike to the Tamana Caves, home to one of the largest bat colonies in the world. At sundown, millions of bats emerge from the caves to find food and will return at sunup the next day. I begrudgingly agreed to go along on the sundown hike to witness the bat exodus, which is how I found myself trudging up a steep, muddy hill in the near dark.
When we reached the caves, silence descended on our group while we waited for the nocturnal animals to appear. Within minutes, hundreds of thousands of bats emerged from the cave in a stream, their papery wings flapping in the warm air. Terrified, I stood completely still, praying none would make contact with me (they didn’t since their elocution helps them avoid anything in their way, like humans). Though it was scary, once I got past my initial fear, I realized what a privilege it was to witness nature in action.
The Caroni Swamp at dusk.
Credit: Mariette Williams
Embracing Swamp Life
One of our day trips from the Asa Wright Nature Centre included a boat ride through the Caroni Swamp and Bird Sanctuary. The highlight of the boat ride was visiting the Bird Sanctuary, where we watched a flight of bright red Scarlet Ibis, the island’s native bird, gracefully land in the mangroves. To our left, a flock of flamingos stepped gracefully through the murky swamp water. It felt like time stopped: we were too far out to get any cell service, and there was no sound, no distractions, just the sound of rustling birds and the water lapping against the boat. It was a reminder that the most beautiful moments when we’re traveling are often the quietest, a feeling I knew I would carry with me long after I returned home.
Flock of flamingos at the Caroni Swamp and Bird Sanctuary
Credit: Mariette Williams
Mt Plaisir Estate Hotel
Credit: HADCO Experiences/Jake Naughton
Releasing Turtles
After a few blissful days at the Asa Nature Wright Centre, we drove two hours to Mt. Plaisire Estate Hotel, located in Grande Riviere, a tiny, remote beach town. Grande Riviere is home to one of the most active Leatherback sea turtle nesting grounds in the world, which we had the opportunity to witness.
During nesting season, local turtle conservationists collect the hatchlings, protecting them from predators, and then releasing the baby turtles at sundown. During our stay, we were invited to participate in an unforgettable sunset ritual: releasing dozens of Leatherback turtle hatchlings right on Grande Riviere Beach. It was such a special moment watching the hatchlings make their way through the wet sand to the water, and a humbling reminder of how important it is to protect nature.
Grand Riviere Beach
Credit: Mariette Williams
Releasing leatherback turtle hatchlings on Grand Riviere Beach.
Credit: Mariette Williams
Embracing Adventure
Spending a week in swamps, caves, and on muddy hikes pushed me out of my comfort zone and surprised me with how much I enjoyed things like hiking and bird-watching. Although you won’t catch me chasing bats again, the trip was a reminder that I shouldn’t box myself in as a certain type of traveler just because it’s unfamiliar.
Mariette Williams hiking in Trinidad and embracing the adventure in travel.
Credit: Mariette Williams
Traveling has given me so many unforgettable experiences that I don’t take for granted, especially as a Black woman who has the freedom and means to travel internationally. While I'm still a girl who loves a good pool day, now I know I'm also one who isn't afraid to get a little mud on her boots.
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Featured image by Mariette Williams